Friday, August 26, 2005

Beige and Tall Buildings

I'm feeling bland right now in New York, so I'm retracing some steps. After 10 weeks of feeling differentiated and magnetic, noticed and observed, I've arrived in a city where I only draw attention on a one to one basis and where I pass through throbbing crowds completely ignored. In contrast to Costa Rica, the new people I've met here comment on how normal and sensible I am. I feel like a rent-a-teammate, or a life-coach perhaps. Let's do this together. What is it that you need? I'm here now and it's OK. It's going to be OK. Anyway, I'm getting off track.

A few minutes ago, I looked back on an entry I posted in May, right before I left for CR. I had asked myself a series of questions, or rather, I copied a series of questions from a WorldTeach handbook into my journal and then answered them naively. In the uncertainty of my new territory, now feels like the right time to contrast those expectations with what actually happened. I need to be doing this in a softer light. A candle light maybe. Here it goes.



"Living and working overseas requires being flexible because rarely does anything go according to plan. For Americans who are used to being "in control" of their lives there is the sudden shock of being in a country where the ethics, pace, goals, and perspective are not what they are used to. It is essentail that we try to bring our expectations to the surface ahead of time, to assess what is the "lens" through which we will evaluate daily life."

->I really just breezed over this passage when I read it in the orientation guide. I thought, Yeah, I know. Flexibility. I'm flexible. No Problem. Recognizing that there will always exist things that are out of my control, digesting that change, and seemlessly redefining the path to my goal does seem to be more difficult for me within American borders than when I'm abroad. In Costa Rica, something would happen and I would
deal with it. Here, when an adversity finds me, I still sulk a little, then I deal with it. It's really all in the mindset. It's a lot like taking a cold shower. If you get into the shower thinking that a shower is supposed to be hot, your experience is going to be miserable. Try thinking that the shower can only be cold. No hot water ever has, or ever will come out of a showerhead. That's how I figured it must have been for most of my students. They probably were unaware that you could bathe in warm water at all. If you really commit to that mindset - if it's out of your control, forget what it should be and accept it for what it is - then when you run out of hot water, you finish bathing (which is the point after all) and then you move on.

1) What images have you been building in your mind over the past months?

3 months ago I imagined homes with dirt floors and no electricity, and people who lived with much less material wealth but much greater appreciation for life, family, and community. Research has reformed the images of desititute poverty that I'd originally pictured. I expect a simpler life, but one of relative comfort. My mind is filled with images of coffee farmers, genuine smiles, intense curiousity, hospitality and community above all else, magnificent wildlife, lush green hills, grinning children, horrible roads and lunatic bus drivers, American tourists (who I hope not to meet), rice and beans, mosquito nets (I don't think I'll need one at a high elevation), embarassment as I struggle to improve my Spanish, joy as I struggle to improve my Spanish, small and minimally decorated concrete classrooms, the Miami airport (?), the possibility of getting sick or ill, the remote fear of being lost in a foreign country, loneliness, excuberating salsa lessons, and hopefully, after some time, life injected with a sense of community unparalleled by anything I've experienced here at home.

->The magnificent wildlife was not as omnipresent as I'd wished, the bus drivers were not lunatics at all (when your livelihood demands that you drive a rusting boxcar down a plinko board, you manage to put forth a surprisingly calm demeanor), and I did indeed travel through the Miami airport. As for a sense of community, I felt it, but I remember expecting to feel it like a big collective energy that would radiate equally from every home and every person I saw on the streets. I sort of imagined this land of perfect harmony where doors were always open and people were simply passing time on the front porch, waiting, smiling, and waving. The reality was that the community was large, diverse, and often ugly. There was an underground railroad of gossip. Drunks often wandered the streets in the evenings, pre-pubescent boys would REVVV their motorcycle
engines, cigarettes in between their lips, and rage carelessly across town, moms were generally bound to household chores day in and day out where they would alternate between laundry and mindnumbing telenovelas. Guys threw trash out their car windows and made sickening cat calls at everything, especially the younger women - who would say Adios to me in passing with the greatest reserve and caution, their voices empty and weak. The community was not a whole, but it was in fact a community. Where I was wrong was assuming that a community would be homogeneous. Also that all its members would be curious, hospitable, and caring. Not the case. The community I came to know was flawed, but it's greatest strengths as it turned out were not those that would be on display in the streets to the new gringo in town. The community showed its strength through it's dedication to constantly improve the telesecundaria - painting walls, building walls, adding a new roof section over the snackbar and a new blue and elegant gate in front of the gravel parking lot. I never heard rumblings that these things were about to take place - these decisions were made in someplace
more private than I knew of, but were made in the collective spirit of community improvement. Where I felt what I'd imagined I would feel was not in group settings, but in individual cafecitos, dinners, or Saturday afternoons where I unexpectedly found myself in the house of one of my students' families, being fed and questioned in a warm and curious way.

2) What do you expect your living arrangement, work situation, school, community, endurace level, and reaction to poverty will be?

I envision a modest tin house along a dirt road, 2 stories, the back of the home facing southeast over a vast and expansive valley. Green for miles around. Coffee plants along the side of the road. Men walking to work with, t-shirts permanently dirty, the smell of coffee in the morning, the smell of fresh baked cakes with a hint of cinnamon (this is totally unfounded). A cold shower, very little time alone, much time in front of the TV watching telenovelas, ideally a lot of time in the living room with the TV off speaking Spanish with my family, sitting down at the family room table with Hellen teaching her English in exchange for Spanish. Working in a four-room building off a similar dirt road, also facing southeast over an even more beautiful and luscious part of the village, perhaps only a 5-10 minute walk from home, open air windows with a warm breeze, Costa Rican kids in uniforms, an eager director (her name is Roxy, she must be eager). I expect difficulty in formulating my lesson plans, I expect creative road blocks, I expect frustration and doubt, I expect this will all pass, I expect of myself a much greater level of patience than I demonstrated with kids at DHCC both internally and externally, I expect to chastise myself for using too much Spanglish in class, I expect to sing out of key, to make up games nobody has ever heard of, to free myself of any fears or inhibitions about acting foolish or singing out of key for the sake of laughs, learning, and love - for if I share those three L's with this community, this experience will be a success.

Wow, not too bad Adam. I even nailed the character description of Roxy, even though I hadn't guessed that she would be incapacitada and then take another job.

3) What do you expect of the WorldTeach program?

Grant me independence, be there for support 24/7, visit me in my village at least once, facilitate sharing of experiences between volunteers, get me the hell out of there if there's an emergency, help generate creative ideas for lesson plans, palsmanship.

It's worth mentioning that before I left I was obsessively worried about becoming fatally ill. I almost got the rabbies vaccine for Christ sake. Ha! I hope I'm out of that stage.

4)How will you adjust if these things aren't what you expected?
A lot of pouting and even more sulking. Just kidding. I need to write, daily. I need to reflect, to refocus by coming back to these expectations, and remember that the whole idea of this life adventure, this unique opportunity that would never ever have come about for me and can never come about for most people my age, in this world, without the love, support, financial sacrifice, and trust of my family, is to put myself in a situation that is unnerving, unpredictable, uncomfortable, and foreign, so that I may better understand and one day work to solve the challenges, injustices, and preventable hardships faced by 5/6 of this world's population. Read The End of Poverty by Jeffrey Sachs, and you'll understand why I'm doing this.

5)How do you find out what expectations others may have of you?

Guessing and assuming won't lead far. I imagine there will be various expectations placed upon me; expectations of me as the sole native English speaker in the village, and within this subsect, expectations from adults, children, students, non-students, men, women, my host-family (will they expect me to devote most of my free time to them and their activities? will they want me to meet their family and friends, and be exclusive with that group?), the school-director Roxy...There will be expectations of me from WorldTeach, expectations as an American, as a Bucknell Alum (jesus, I haven't written that before!), expectations from friends and family. The more I make myself available for questions, the more questions I ask, the more and various ways I attempt to establish communication and receive feedback, the clearer picture I will have of what expectations people have of me, which ones I can and should attempt to meet, which I cannot, and which should be given priority. What expectations do you, as a friend, family member, former professor (friend) of mine have of me?

6)What are your expectations of your free time and how you will spend it?

Reading Guns, Germs, and Steel, Learning spanish, making friends, talking, talking, talking.

Thursday, August 25, 2005

A Few of The New Yorkers I Have Met So Far.

Shelley: Mid 30's, goofy non-chalant. I don't think she would have minded if I were to breed piglets in my room, so long as I didn't ask her to remove her Monet's from the living room walls. She was the first person I met who is "freelancing," which seems more like a lie one tells oneself to keep from panicking in times of unemployment.

Brian: "I had this one tenant who I sweaaar was suiciduhl. This one time he turned the stove on and just stahted cookin olive oil, tryin to smoke us out or somthin'. I was this close to cahllin' up my old Italian buddies in the neighbahood, but ya know, I'm oldah now. I wouldn't do that anyma." Cordially, he called me back yesterday to see if I was still interested.

Troy:

Adam: So, how is the neighborhood here?

Troy: Williamsburg IS the center of culture. Everyone knows this. Williamsburg. (Blank stare out the 2nd story window). Williamsburg. It all starts in Williamsburg. New York, Manhattan...they want to be Williamsburg. They'll never be Williamsburg. (Focusing his druggy wolf eyes, looking far past me into the distance). This is the cutting edge of hipness. Williamsburg. Williamsburg.

Jo, Sasha:
Nothing bad to say. Carpet from under my feet. I really wish it would have worked out. "We like to have fun, but we realize we're not in college anymore." And that refrigerator. OH GOD. That refrigerator was sexy! I've got a budding thing for stainless steel. And plants, they had green in their apartment and it was not mildew. I've got to get over this.

Dan: I had high hopes for Dan, mostly because he lived caddy-corner to a colorful brunch place. Dan bobbed his head spastically and intensely, up down up down, narrowing his eyes as he looked deeply at me. He resembled Conan O'Brien, shorter by about 7 inches and albino. The apartment rang of Journey. "The wheel in the sky keeps on turning." Dan said, "I'm not paranoid but I just need to know cause I'm straight, are you straight?" I said thanks, and headed towards the door, ducking my head so I wouldn't bump the speedbag hanging in the hallway.

Tuesday, August 23, 2005

Recommendation: Apartment searching in New York

Skills Necessary to abort the occasional urge of throwing yourself in front of the F train:

1. I actually don't know. I have absolutely no idea. Here's the thing. I had the perfect place. Flawless. Great location, great roommates, an immaculate stainless steel refrigerator that made me drool, and living space galore! A back porch too. A back porch! Anyway, that all fell through last night when the girl whose room I was going to take over (non-imperialistically, of course) backed out, got cold feet, freaked out and froze, fucked up my perfect plans, shattered my hopes of wealth, opulence, and comfort; whatever you want to call it, she decided to stay put. I felt like I'd been robbed. Pickpocketed. Caught off guard. Shoved unknowingly, like a guy standing next to a pool sipping a dacquiri and just enjoying the ambiance who falls victim to that two-person gag where one person kneels down behind the unsuspecting dacquiri-drinker's knees and the third person gives a casual shove to the innocent person's chest causing him to flop awkwardly into the water before he's even quite sure what the hell has just happened. Man did I feel beat down and stepped on. I'd started to form all these expectations of what my new life would be like in this new neighborhood, and with a quick phone call, the foundation was wiped out, and I was told to start over. What lack of discipline! I just got done telling myself to build up goals, but not short term expectations. Did I learn nothing from my 10 weeks? Funny though, the first thing I thought of after hearing the news was this video with Andy Goldsworthy in which he spends hours upon hours assembling delicate pieces of natural and transient materials only to see them crumble at the slap of a stiff breeze or the curl of a wave. When these setbacks happen to him, he seems so inexplicably calm. He gives a shrug or utters a short vulgarity, then starts up all over again without lamenting what was lost. That's how I felt. At least that's how I told myself I wanted to feel.

But why is it, these days, that I almost prefer adversity to good fortune? It's a strange but wildly comforting hangover that has stayed with me from Costa Rica. My life is more exciting when there is a difficulty, a challenge, a transparent obstacle in front of a goal (they're all transparent. they blur but fail to blot out what I want)...I like the creativity that necessitates from this type of adversity. I like feeling my mind churn. I like knowing that there is still a path to my goal, but not knowing where it is or quite how to get there. I don't feel that things can't be done. I don't believe that things will work themselves out. Nothing works itself out unless you take action.

I think back to my lousy host family situation in Llano Bonito. I remember feeling so terribly uncomfortable my first night in their living room as Oscar the car-painter amused himself with my inability to understand his hillbilly Spanish, speaking faster and faster with more and more slang as the family sat there and smirked. I remember that cold feeling of unacceptance looking down at me as I got up and went away to my basement hole, realizing I would find no companionship at all in this household. I wrote in my journal - "the choice is on you; sulk or act." At school the next few days, I began to ask my students what their parents do, who their siblings are, where they live, and I told a few of them that I'd love to come by and meet their families. With a few invites on the table, I took my bad Spanish into new living rooms and was well received. I had a bad host family, but with a little initiative, I now had new families to pass the time with. Families who fed me. I had created something. I had disliked my circumstances and set out to create better ones. I loved how it felt.

I met someone today named Tarique. Tarique has been searching for an apartment for months -same price range as me, same general searching process - but somehow after months he is still searching. I got up this morning, pissed off and emotionally bruised, and set up 5 appointments. By 2pm, I was in a newly renovated 2 bedroom, awesome location near St. Mark's. I met with a stranger named Geoffry who turned out not to be a stranger at all. We almost instantly discovered that we had both grown up in the same town, same elementary school, same middle school, similar acquantances - who the hell ever would have thought?? - and now I sit here in my imperially conquered couch on the Upper East Side (thank you Lauren!!) in better spirits awaiting a phone call. This is the part that makes me pace. Makes me run my fingers through my hair too frequently. Makes me stare at things with a burning focus. This is the part where I hand it over to the jury and wait, and I realize now that this is not a strong part of my personality - this patience - this waiting. I need to act, always need to be thinking, moving, moving things, changing things, progressing and going forward.

Other Recommendations:
Book:
Birds of America, by Lorrie Moore. People unhinged, displaced. Lives misspent. Dark Laughter. I'm only 5 stories into this collection of short stories, but I'm hooked. She sees the unrest beneath the pleasantries.

Music:
Dear Catastrophe Waitress, by Belle and Sebastian. Anyone who can tastefully write a song about Mike Piazza automatically gets my vote.

Monday, August 22, 2005

In Between Settling and Shouting

I had thought it, typed it, tried to publish it, and lost it. Something today has been magical, so it comes as no surprise that a post which had been temporarily lost did in fact make it public. The blog doesn't seem to need me anymore!

What I really wanted was to find an emotion or memory from each of my 71 days. A summary of sorts. But things have moved fast, or rather, I have sped up the pace of my life since returning. I haven't given myself time to process what I just went through. While the gains have been great in the past few days (I have an amazing place now in the East Village - more on that soon!), I haven't been able to focus my thoughts and reflect before bed like I did nightly in Costa Rica. I wanted to spill out a summary onto these pages before daring to shift my mindset to stateside challenges, and that hasn't happened. I'm afraid of experiences slipping away and changes reversing. They won't. You won't let me let them go. This is good, actually. I'm using what I've learned already, unknowingly, sitting here relaxing in the Upper East Side. I came home and immediately attacked my next goal - finding a new home. It's not what I wanted to do, but it is what I needed to do, and knowing it had to be done and knowing I could do it (though I was intimidated), I stopped thinking and started acting. It's done now, and what has come to me is beautiful. Digressing, perhaps a more comfortable way to look back on the past 10 weeks is to observe how my memories come back to me, unexpectedly and randomly. I'll be on the subway, in the park, in front of a computer, in a remarkable and superfluous 10 story department store - what will I remember at what times, and why?

It may have escaped me to mention anything about my last week in Costa Rica. It may be that I'm just not ready to write about it. It was a much more private week for me, a delicate week spent with a person of great strength, spent in various situations that demanded strength in various forms - forms we didn't think we had - the least of which was determination to trek to the summit of a 12,700 foot mountain. If you could have been there - maybe you would have been standing behind my hot chocolate, or peering out from behind my tightly wrapped blankets as I was shaking and weak - if you could have been there as Rosa burst in through the hostel doors, into the hallway and towards my table with the energy of a woman who had just spoken with God - if you could have been there, dying to drink from her energy, wide-eyed and ready to know what she knew right then, you would understand why I can't quite put it all into words, not just yet.

Here in New York, well-intentioned people have commended me for making such a quick transition from rural CR to the grandiose city with questions that allude to culture shock. In reality, I've felt almost no sort of awe in being here. I notice three things: First, the incredible diversity of people - diversity of race and particularly of height. Second, the cleanliness of the city given its size and population density. GT pointed out to me that I may be the first person to ever praise New York for its cleanliness. Maybe so, but unlike San Jose, buses in New York don't force clouds of black diesel exhaust into your tear ducts and down your throats as you try to walk from your hostel to the automercado. Third, people and their accessories look silly. The massiveness of the buildings, the expansiveness, the enclosure all have caused little to no emotional response.

A short story is incubating in my head involving a man named Brian whom I met yesterday at the 'open house' he was hosting. He was open about a lot of things, I guess, which amounted to one and a half hours of remarkable storytime that no property owner should ever share with a prospective renter. Telegram for Brian: If you want someone to rent your room, don't tell them that you once thought of putting a Mafia hit out on a tenant. And definitely don't spend the next five minutes excitedly justifying it. And DEFINITELY don't end it by saying you wouldn't think that way anymore. You might also want to be a little more hush hush about the 'brake dust and tire scum' that floats into your building's open windows from the nearby highway, the La Guardia flightpath overhead, the hookers you've had as tenants (tenants!), the 16 year old girl you impregnated, your company's annual negative income, the "debate" over the origin of a black woman's pubic hair in the bathtub followed by the revelation that you're sleeping with one of your 23 year old tenants and you're 40, the old skinny Italian man next door who you pay off to "watch" the apartment and not to "break into the apartment and steal a stereo," and you know, details like that. Good luck though, renting that room out.

But for all the folks in this city who are maybe just a little too eager to share, or let's call him Troy, whose clear deep eyes grew a little too vertically wide and whose monotone voice boomed a little too nasally sharp when declaring that Williamsburg is the cultural envy of all New York these days, there are the rare few who you find on craigslist at 8:35pm, whose tones are instantly soothing and relaxed, equally relieved to hear normalcy on the other end of the line, who say "hey, if you want, why don't you just come by tonight once we get back from dinner, say around 11?" whose mere act of offering just that, whose genuine inquiry about the places you've been and unrequested honesty about the size of the room in question tell you that Yes, this is going to be right. And then you know this, even before you step foot out of Lauren's Upper East Side apt. to make your way down to meet these girls. You just sense that the needs and interests have matched up, that new friendships are about to be made. Somehow, this trust is established over the phone, and the rest becomes almost superfluous, equivalent in feeling to coming home after a long long time away, a time full of uncertainty, and that finally you will have stability and encouragement and a youthful idealism and goddamn! you are so ready to begin.

Monday, August 15, 2005

Questions, Emotions, and Events from the Journey

Day 1: Joy in Unfamiliarity. Eagerness. A crowd of nervous hosts waiting like family for a van of nervous volunteers.

Day 2: Unveiling, 5am. Orosi had been lurking behind a veil of darkness when we arrived the night before. I opened every door to every new view that morning like a kid unwrapping a present on the first night of Hannukah.

Day 3: Procession of a Christ figure through the Streets, 6:30am. Realization that Emily would be a dear friend to me, an honest confidant for the coming months. The aforementioned event did not lead to the aforementioned realization. Observed that big breakfasts with full family accompaniment make me very happy.

Day 4: First use of internet, directly coinciding with the first time I felt frustrated and wasteful in Costa Rica. Wrote in my journal that the internet is a lethal opiate given to N. American children. First appearance in my journal of a thought that would recur - that maybe I love this life and love being here because it is fleeting and has a definite end. Downplayed it's relevance at the time...Jumping in a waterfall and swinging from a vine led me to write that I should do anything that scares me. I still believe that, and the thought, though proven to be the only way I want to live, still strangely scares me.

Day 5: English teacher Natalia expresses her embarassment at not knowing all the people in Orosi. Between 3-6,000 people live there.

Day 6: Gratification. Informally taught English for the first time, and was rewarded with sincere attention from my crowd of 3, the Orosi family.

Day 7: San Jose - poverty without charm. Disregard for making repairs. I didn't even take pictures. A cab ride that showed me I could indeed communicate in Spanish. A woman spoke of the telesecundaria system and the small towns, describing the appreciation with which we would be received in our towns, of which I needed to be reassured at the time.

Day 8: Can it be this hard to say goodbye to people you've only known for 8 days? A painful longing to stay with people, to be part of a community of like minded and determined people who you know will always follow through. Wrote my Ode to Emily, which I will now make public:

...this girl blows my mind. Not once has she faltered. She is consistently strong, confident, and full of purpose. She supercedes evertyhing I'd thought a human being could handle. Without losing an ounce of charm and without displaying anything in the family tree of pride, she has conveyed and imparted in us an unshakable bravery, humility, and compassion. Handed an impossible task, she has performed with nothing short of excellence. Unwavering Excellence. She alone is responsible for litertally mothering 23 people whom she has known for one week, many of whom have never left the country, all but two of whom have never taught, a grou whose collective spanish is weak and passport stamps are few. I've never seen her adopt an innapropriate tone for any situation, whether in English or Spanish. She balances this tremendous task, of managing 46 people's children by completing every task promptly and thoroughly, then going one step futher and preparing an alternative course of action just in case. If she is stressed, which she logically must be, she never shows it. I don't even get to see the work she does behind the scenes to prepare. Who she is, I aspire to be, and it humbles me.
6-9-05

Sunday, August 14, 2005


You might see this on a walk in Llano Bonito. Posted by Picasa


Hazel and Ronald's house Posted by Picasa


Nicole, the Gringo, and Beatriz. Posted by Picasa


Beatriz, Paula, and Nicole from left to right. All age 8. Posted by Picasa


Paula, 8 years old. Posted by Picasa


Favrisio, 3 years old. Posted by Picasa


The trash cans in all their dirty-clothes-hamperesque glory. Posted by Picasa


Llano Bonito from below. Posted by Picasa


Day at the Orphanage in Moin; just after coming back from the beach. Posted by Picasa


My favorite photo of all. That's Andrea in my arms, with Katarine on the right. Posted by Picasa


Teaching, as usual, with a glorious white light surrounding (please don't drown in my sarcasm) Posted by Picasa


My 5-star accomodations. Posted by Picasa


Orosi Valley Posted by Picasa


Telesecundaria, Llano Bonito. View from the Main Street above. Posted by Picasa